Showing posts with label part. Show all posts
Showing posts with label part. Show all posts
Monday, February 10, 2014
The Ply Wooden Boat Part III Construction
We the boat materials purchased, I returned from Lowes. Back in the driveway of the cabin we stay at I set up the saw horses (to realize I’d miscounted 2”x4” and only had enough to make them 24” wide) and got to work.
First I sat on and “tested” one of the plywood pieces which I had ripped to about 30” (I think that’s right, but I should have taken notes) to make the bottom of the boat. I wanted to go wider than the 24” that GardenFork.tv did in order to displace more water and provide more buoyancy. I sat on that piece and pretended to row, testing that it was an appropriate width.
Once I had settled on the width I reviewed the boat bottom with my cousin Robert (who was kind enough to help record the video along with my cousin Nick) we decided that it should have some taper to it at the bow and stern. I marked out the shape with the chalk lines and the casket shape of the boat was arrived on.
The next step was to install the battens which fit where the sides meet the bottom. I used a scrap of CDX to mark out the width of the sides and then used relative dimensioning to size the batten pieces. Each batten piece was sat in a double bead of M-1 sealant and screwed to the base using the Kreg screws.
With battens installed, I cut the sides. Because of the casket shape I couldnt simply use a single, flat side piece as the GardenFork.tv boat had. Rather than make three (3) pieces per side and have that many more battens to install and joints to waterproof, I simply made kerfs in the inside face of the walls at the angle changes. When the sides were screwed to the battens, they formed around the shape of the bottom (though the cupped in slightly at the top).
Next came the stern, which was a simple square piece of CDX. Because it was square, I used it to help fight the cupping that bending the sides had created. The stern was installed by seating it in more M-1 and screwing into battens between the stern and bottom and the stern and sides.
The bow was installed similarly, though because it was installed at 45° to the bottom it took a bit more fudging to install and had much more cupping of the sides to deal with.
Once the sides were all attached, I installed a batten around the top outside edge to stiffen the sides and provide a lip to hold and carry the boat with. I also installed a batten across the top from side to side. This batten was to hold the sides apart and further reduce the cupping at the top of the sides that had resulted from bending them around the casket shape of the bottom.
The last step of construction before waterproofing was to add a keel. My keel is relatively small and oddly constructed. The bracing all around it was necessary to avoid screwing into the ⅜” edge of the plywood. At home, I probably would have dominoed it on. On vacation I had to settle for the Kreg screws (but no Kreg jig) I had brought with me.
Read More..
First I sat on and “tested” one of the plywood pieces which I had ripped to about 30” (I think that’s right, but I should have taken notes) to make the bottom of the boat. I wanted to go wider than the 24” that GardenFork.tv did in order to displace more water and provide more buoyancy. I sat on that piece and pretended to row, testing that it was an appropriate width.
Once I had settled on the width I reviewed the boat bottom with my cousin Robert (who was kind enough to help record the video along with my cousin Nick) we decided that it should have some taper to it at the bow and stern. I marked out the shape with the chalk lines and the casket shape of the boat was arrived on.
The next step was to install the battens which fit where the sides meet the bottom. I used a scrap of CDX to mark out the width of the sides and then used relative dimensioning to size the batten pieces. Each batten piece was sat in a double bead of M-1 sealant and screwed to the base using the Kreg screws.
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| Robert carefully considers the shape of the hull. |
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| Once the base was cut to size, the sides where the next to be assembled.. |
The bow was installed similarly, though because it was installed at 45° to the bottom it took a bit more fudging to install and had much more cupping of the sides to deal with.
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| With the sides, stern and bow installed, it was time for a snack. |
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| Some gentle clamp pressure helped un-bow the sides so that I could install the cross batten. |
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| Keelly. |
More (Ply)Wooden Boat posts.
Unplugged Summer Part Three
Building a Stand for the Dovetailed Box
With the dovetails dry fit Ill take some of my scrap wood and try to get a sense of the weight and dimension the stand should be for the piece. I want things to be slight and skinny, with a modern sensibility about it. The exposed joinery on the box will also be reflected through the stand joinery but first Ill have to dimension some stock.
This 16 long plank of Khaya would be a dream to most but sadly its so warped and twisted that getting a 30" length out of it without any kind of hollow or wind proves to be a real challenge. (now whats that about building myself that new 16 work bench?)
Ill continue on with some cross cutting and ripping followed by some more surfacing, shooting and then smoothing until I have all of the components needed to make up the stand.
The Tite-Mark is again in high demand around the wood shop and the stock thicknessing is a slow but pleasant affair. Ill scribe one side of the long narrow leg and then over to the bench for another round of surfacing...
The process is repeated again at my make shift saw bench.
Above you can see the nice deep scribe line Ill be able to cleanly plane to; the round blade and body of this style marking gauge makes it easy and accurate to roll around the edges of the work piece.
With the legs silky smooth Ill go ahead and glue together the box. Once dry I can finish plane it and then start fitting the legs to snugly wrap around the dovetailed carcass. Ill lay things out on the bench with clamps and knife in the joinery lines.
The top corners of the frame will be simple bridle joints with some mortise and tenon joinery for the cross stretchers and feet. This is a good half day of work getting the lower frame dimensioned with the joinery laid out. Ill leave it there for today and start sawing the corner joints and chopping the mortises in the morning...
5 a.m. and Im up to get the early worm. Some coffee and a fire will clear away yesterdays shavings and Ill begin the joinery. In the next shot you can see Ive laid out the mortises but I totally gapped on any shots of the bridle joint sawing.
The pieces are clamped securely down to the bench to with my surface clamp and a scrap oard so I dont bruise the freshly planed surfaces. Ill carefully chop out the waste with my mortise chisel and go ahead sawing the tenons. This process continues on from mortise to tenon, bridle to bridle.
I find some days that these early morning wake up calls can get the brain on auto-pilot and before I know it Im dry fitting the front lower assembly.
I say front assembly because Ive decided to make two upright frame sections for the stand; a thinner front assembly with an identical rear frame slightly larger than the first. This will add to the modern effect Im looking for, almost cosmopolitan or a reflection of the city scape Ive left behind a few weeks ago.
The shot above shows the front assembly clamped into my shoulder vise with the rear assembly piece balanced to see if I like where Im going. Again the design evolves as I work and I allow the wood to dictate the forms as they develop into this small frame assembly almost alien in nature holding up the small structure.
The rear frame components follow the same pattern as the first only with slightly larger pieces and joinery. Im moving along and am excited to get the feet started so I can stop rigging things up with clamps on the bench top. In the last shot you can see some of my Cabinet Master clamps acting as feet to hold the work tall and proud, this will again assist me in delivering a verdict on this design.
Im happy with the way this piece is progressing and Ill rough out some stock for the feet. I decided to add another lower cross stretcher giving some more stability when the carcass gets pushed a little further through the frame opening and cantilevers out a little bit more. The front left leg has a wild twist in it; I didnt notice it until the four legs are together around the carcass. I think about removing it but later choose to let it stay where it is. It gives the piece a strange kind of movement, almost a sense of waiting, perhaps on a journey somewhere?
Ive got the feet to chop for the leg tenons and then I can do some more shaping. This will have to wait a few days; we have some summer company coming to visit and theres a list as long as my arm of things needing to be done around the house. Im off to the timber frame pile next to the shop to cross cut some planks for my daughters bed. We just set up a nice old sleigh bed for her and it seems to be missing the cross rail supports thatll lie underneath the mattress. So with my panel saw and a framing square I have about 32 cross cuts to make in some old planks. It feels good for the soul to be outside under this summer sun working wood again.
Stay tuned...
Read More..
With the dovetails dry fit Ill take some of my scrap wood and try to get a sense of the weight and dimension the stand should be for the piece. I want things to be slight and skinny, with a modern sensibility about it. The exposed joinery on the box will also be reflected through the stand joinery but first Ill have to dimension some stock.
This 16 long plank of Khaya would be a dream to most but sadly its so warped and twisted that getting a 30" length out of it without any kind of hollow or wind proves to be a real challenge. (now whats that about building myself that new 16 work bench?)
Ill continue on with some cross cutting and ripping followed by some more surfacing, shooting and then smoothing until I have all of the components needed to make up the stand.
The Tite-Mark is again in high demand around the wood shop and the stock thicknessing is a slow but pleasant affair. Ill scribe one side of the long narrow leg and then over to the bench for another round of surfacing...
The process is repeated again at my make shift saw bench.
Above you can see the nice deep scribe line Ill be able to cleanly plane to; the round blade and body of this style marking gauge makes it easy and accurate to roll around the edges of the work piece.
With the legs silky smooth Ill go ahead and glue together the box. Once dry I can finish plane it and then start fitting the legs to snugly wrap around the dovetailed carcass. Ill lay things out on the bench with clamps and knife in the joinery lines.
The top corners of the frame will be simple bridle joints with some mortise and tenon joinery for the cross stretchers and feet. This is a good half day of work getting the lower frame dimensioned with the joinery laid out. Ill leave it there for today and start sawing the corner joints and chopping the mortises in the morning...
5 a.m. and Im up to get the early worm. Some coffee and a fire will clear away yesterdays shavings and Ill begin the joinery. In the next shot you can see Ive laid out the mortises but I totally gapped on any shots of the bridle joint sawing.
The pieces are clamped securely down to the bench to with my surface clamp and a scrap oard so I dont bruise the freshly planed surfaces. Ill carefully chop out the waste with my mortise chisel and go ahead sawing the tenons. This process continues on from mortise to tenon, bridle to bridle.
I find some days that these early morning wake up calls can get the brain on auto-pilot and before I know it Im dry fitting the front lower assembly.
I say front assembly because Ive decided to make two upright frame sections for the stand; a thinner front assembly with an identical rear frame slightly larger than the first. This will add to the modern effect Im looking for, almost cosmopolitan or a reflection of the city scape Ive left behind a few weeks ago.
The shot above shows the front assembly clamped into my shoulder vise with the rear assembly piece balanced to see if I like where Im going. Again the design evolves as I work and I allow the wood to dictate the forms as they develop into this small frame assembly almost alien in nature holding up the small structure.
The rear frame components follow the same pattern as the first only with slightly larger pieces and joinery. Im moving along and am excited to get the feet started so I can stop rigging things up with clamps on the bench top. In the last shot you can see some of my Cabinet Master clamps acting as feet to hold the work tall and proud, this will again assist me in delivering a verdict on this design.
Im happy with the way this piece is progressing and Ill rough out some stock for the feet. I decided to add another lower cross stretcher giving some more stability when the carcass gets pushed a little further through the frame opening and cantilevers out a little bit more. The front left leg has a wild twist in it; I didnt notice it until the four legs are together around the carcass. I think about removing it but later choose to let it stay where it is. It gives the piece a strange kind of movement, almost a sense of waiting, perhaps on a journey somewhere?
Ive got the feet to chop for the leg tenons and then I can do some more shaping. This will have to wait a few days; we have some summer company coming to visit and theres a list as long as my arm of things needing to be done around the house. Im off to the timber frame pile next to the shop to cross cut some planks for my daughters bed. We just set up a nice old sleigh bed for her and it seems to be missing the cross rail supports thatll lie underneath the mattress. So with my panel saw and a framing square I have about 32 cross cuts to make in some old planks. It feels good for the soul to be outside under this summer sun working wood again.
Stay tuned...
Tuesday, January 28, 2014
A Rack For Her Glue Gun Part II
With everything milled, the Dominos cut and the tile recesses made, it was time for the initial glue up. I glued up the four (4) side of box which forms the rear glue stick storage compartment. Then I glued the extra long walnut side and rear ebony block to it.
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| Still a bit too square for my taste. |
Next I began the shaping, as I wanted to make sure I was able to work the edge I would no longer be able to reach after final glue up. The shaping was, of course, the hard and the fun part of the project. It was the first project I was able to use my Foredom rotary tool on. Using a Kutzall bit, it made quick work of the walnut and ebony. I still used my rasps for final shaping, but the Foredom was much, much faster for the rough work.
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| The glue stick caddy, post shaping. |
Once I’d done about 70% of the shaping, I glued the sub assemblies to the base. As you may have guesses, I joined everything with Dominos. This made for easy, quick and strong joints between the vertical components and the base.
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| Flaring the curved verticals into the base was easy. |
The final shaping could now be done. I used my Festool RAS 115 to blend the shaped side of the base into the shaped side of the verticals. I learned from Andy Chidwick that using a hard platen on the RAS 115 with a 40 grit sanding disc allows you to use the sander like a grinder with better dust control and more finesse. As I had with the Foredom, I followed up the RAS 115 with rasps.
With the shaping done, I dealt with the small gap that was left between the ebony and walnut on the front piece. The glue up hadnt been perfect and there was about a 1/16” gap at the top of the joint. To fill it I dyed some 5 minute epoxy with India Ink. This created Epoxy almost the exact color of the ebony.
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| Just a touch of black epoxy made the gap disappear (I know I messed up the order). |
After the shaping, I had to deal with the coarse texture.
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