Plans ideas

I wanted to make a back-to-school project this week and had the idea to make something for a locker that would include a dry-erase board and a mirror. As the project evolved, it thought it would also be fun to make it into a mini-locker, for storing small items.

I couldnt figure out exactly what to call this so i posed the question on my Facebook page. Youll see some of the suggestions at the end of the video. My favorites are "Locker Docker" and "Look-n-Lock".

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Good Evening Everyone,

There are a number of books on the market about wood lathes and one of the very best books for beginners is Lathe Fundamentals: The Complete Guide by Popular Mechanics/Rick Peters ( New York: Hearst Books, 2006. ISBN: 978-1-58816-447-6. 192 pages). Many of the books published about wood lathes tend to be written by experts for people who have been turning for a long time or their coverage of all the aspects of wood turning tend to be rather uneven. Lathe Fundamentals covers every aspect of wood turning-from selecting a lathe, the basic types of chisels, and basic techniques. It also goes into more advanced techniques, has a very clearly written section on chisel sharpening and grinding, and an excellent section on lathe maintenance and repair. At the very end of the book are several projects that will help the beginning turner achieve a simple but well made project-it even has a section on pen turning. The book is also is well illustrated with numerous photographs that show step by step how to achieve a given activity. Its very clearly written with a noticeable absence of technical jargon, which I think at times can be a little confusing for the beginning turner.

If you are planning to purchase a lathe and get started as a wood turner, this book is the book you should read before making a purchase. If you plan on purchasing a lathe for someone as a gift, then you should definitely purchase this book.

VW

Hi,
After I finished the bowl session today I took out the spoon and took a long look at it and did a little carving and discovered that my carving tools probably wouldnt cut soft butter so its time to stop and sharpen everything up. Heres some photos:

Here is the spoon blank from last night. Note that its squarish in shape. I like my spoons to be more rounded so Im going to shape the bowl a little bit:


I have a gouge that I very much like using for the exterior surfaces of spoons and other things and here is a photo of it. Poor thing is as dull as a tool can get and still be considered a tool:


I also have a small draw knife that Im partial too. Same dulled edge...gee I wonder who owns these tools...?

 Here is the bowl after several fruitless minutes trying to shape it. I might have done better had a bitten off the corners with my teeth:


I have a number of carving tools that have curved cutting surfaces that cant be sharpened on a grinding wheel or a flat sharpening stone. A wood carver in England named Sean Hellman has a really good video on sharpening a hook knife, which I have. The video shows a very simple method for sharpening  and Im going to post a link to his blog so you can see it too: http://seanhellman.blogspot.com/2012/02/sharpening-mora-164-hook-knife-and-how.html.

Ok, Im going to sharpen everything tomorrow and continue on with the spoon. Thanks for dropping by and Ill see you soon.

VW

Hi Everyone,

I had a little spare time this afternoon and we all know that I cant resist working in the wood shop even its only for 5 minutes. So I decided to finish sanding the square and the ash plates.

Here we go:

Here is the finished ash plate. Ive sanded it to 400 grit and polished the surface with 0000 steel wool. Its ready for oiling at this point:


I love oil finishes. They make wood look so beautiful and you can feel the wood with your hands when its finished. There isnt a layer between you and the wooden object. I like to use Tried and True varnish oil. Its linseed oil with a dryer added to it. Linseed oil  finishes are an old time type of a finish but the bad part about them is that it can take several weeks to a month for the finish to dry and cure. The dryer in this cut that down to about 24-36 hours.

The trick to using this is to use this product at room temperature (since its so cold here I keep it in my house. I dont think storing at really low temps is good for this), and to apply multiple thin coats of oil with at least 36 hours of drying time between coats of oil. This product is the consistency and color of honey so it doesnt take a lot to oil something.

The surface should be free of all wood dust and so should your hands. You should only rub in enough to barely wet the surface and then set it aside for about an hour. If after an hour there is any wet spots on the surface, you should take a clean cloth and gently rub that away and then let your item dry:



Ok, time to oil. This is always my favorite part of any project.

Drum Roll!!

Here is a photo of the ash plate with half of the surface oiled and the other half still un oiled:



 And here is a photo of the cumaru plate:



Im going to let both just sit for an hour and then Ill take another look at them and if they need it, Ill rub down the surface to take away any excess oil.

The walnut plate has some tear out and that is going to have to be sanding completely away before I do the finish sanding and oiling. I will take pictures and post them in a day or two when thats done.

All of the plates will get two coats of oil and Ill post finish photos before I mail them off.

VW

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Were coming down the stretch on a pretty big (60 wide x 74 long) partners desk. Its actually for a husband and wife home office ... The sketch above was my initial concept; the cad drawing below, sort of where we ended up. It had a curve on the end for a while, but that was dropped and I had to change the number of butterflies to get the grommet butterfly in the right place, but other than that, its pretty much as drawn. Click the photos to enlarge them ...
We were able to get some really wide mahogany planks from Irion Lumber. In fact, we were able to make a two board top and two board solid end panel ... It came in just a tad shy of 60" wide.
The interior case of the drawer box is 3/4" baltic birch ply and it now has a center 1/2 partition for rigidity. The solid wood panels are attached but floating. As they expand and contract with the seasons, the set back of the drawer faces will increase or decrease with their movement. Since were sort of at a midpoint in Vermonts humidity cycle, they are currently set back about 3/16ths" from the vertical members of the face frame.
Ive think if you enlarge this picture, you can see the screws attaching the side panels through slots that Trevor very cleverly made with our Festool Domino ... Good, creative tool adaptation...
We also had to stabilize the end panel with this 8" tall dovetailed box with a hole for the cord to go through. There will be a surge protector/plug strip in this box and the cord will pass through the drawer box and emerge to plug into the wall at the end of the desk.
We also added a piece of 1/4" x 2" steel to the top of the panel which stiffens it and gives a stiffener and method of attachment for the wide top too. The horizontal face frames are glued to the box and will remain stationary with the drawer fronts ...
Ready for finishing. the bottom file drawers have 3/16ths x 1/2" brass bars for hanging Pendaflex files ..
End view
The parts are finished but we will probably not assemble it until its time for delivery the week of the 15th when they hope to have the house completed .. Well see ...