Plans ideas

After checking out some of their chairs, I started reading about the husband and wife designer team, Charles and Ray Eames. I had seen chairs of theirs without knowing who designed them. Although the couple were active from the 30s through the 80s, the easiest way I can think of describing their chairs is retro or a 1960s mod design. Honestly, when I see chairs like theirs, the first things that come to mind are an apartment scene from the movie "A Clockwork Orange" and the furniture store Ikea. The movie was filmed in 1971 and was set in a late 1960s version of a futuristic London. This explains why I associated Eames mod chairs with a movie they probably werent even filmed in. Also, I was so sure I had seen their chairs at Ikea, that I googled it. Turns out theres a few articles about getting Eames knockoffs at Ikea. This one for instance: Knock It Off.

The influence of science and new technology were evident in their exhibition Mathematica: A World of Numbers...and Beyond at the California Museum of Science and Industry, their movie Powers of Ten, described on IMDB(Internet Movie Database) as a “scientific film essay”, their extensive work with IBM, and by the use of new building methods and materials in furniture. Rays study of abstract art and the couples interest in science also come across in the fascinating shapes of some of their chairs (especially those from the 50s and 60s). The chairs are very simple but have biomorphic shapes. Modern for their time, the chairs utilize molded plywood and plastics.

The Eames believed they could improve the lives of people by making functional furniture/art that did not sacrifice expression and design. They even worked with the government to spread their art to the masses. Ultimately, the main attraction for me is this integration of function and design.

Because of all this research now I want these with a Ray Eames design pattern. :)

btw-please let me know if anything is inaccurate or doesnt make sense. thanks

Hi Everyone,

I had a little spare time this afternoon and we all know that I cant resist working in the wood shop even its only for 5 minutes. So I decided to finish sanding the square and the ash plates.

Here we go:

Here is the finished ash plate. Ive sanded it to 400 grit and polished the surface with 0000 steel wool. Its ready for oiling at this point:


I love oil finishes. They make wood look so beautiful and you can feel the wood with your hands when its finished. There isnt a layer between you and the wooden object. I like to use Tried and True varnish oil. Its linseed oil with a dryer added to it. Linseed oil  finishes are an old time type of a finish but the bad part about them is that it can take several weeks to a month for the finish to dry and cure. The dryer in this cut that down to about 24-36 hours.

The trick to using this is to use this product at room temperature (since its so cold here I keep it in my house. I dont think storing at really low temps is good for this), and to apply multiple thin coats of oil with at least 36 hours of drying time between coats of oil. This product is the consistency and color of honey so it doesnt take a lot to oil something.

The surface should be free of all wood dust and so should your hands. You should only rub in enough to barely wet the surface and then set it aside for about an hour. If after an hour there is any wet spots on the surface, you should take a clean cloth and gently rub that away and then let your item dry:



Ok, time to oil. This is always my favorite part of any project.

Drum Roll!!

Here is a photo of the ash plate with half of the surface oiled and the other half still un oiled:



 And here is a photo of the cumaru plate:



Im going to let both just sit for an hour and then Ill take another look at them and if they need it, Ill rub down the surface to take away any excess oil.

The walnut plate has some tear out and that is going to have to be sanding completely away before I do the finish sanding and oiling. I will take pictures and post them in a day or two when thats done.

All of the plates will get two coats of oil and Ill post finish photos before I mail them off.

VW

In paying another visit to Minster, Ohio today, I took some additional pictures to share with you, with the door hardware and outside weather stripping on.
A note on the weather stripping - it was difficult to find anything that would seal up the arch portion of the door properly. I finally settled on garage door stop material! It has a wider vinyl piece to help accommodate the arched area. The solid part was too wide, so I ripped it on the table saw to about an inch wide. I had to pre-drill holes to avoid breaking it, and secured it with 6d finish nails. I finished it off by caulking around it with exterior 50 year caulk.

I am available for new projects. If you are interested in a discussing your ideas or want a quote, please email me! I hope youve enjoyed watching this project.

The adjustable fence rebate plane is a wooden plane able to compete with its metallic sisters. This model I own, is a moving fillister and comes from UK, made by the planemaker William Kendall (York, 1818-1830). 




These planes have a sturdy structure, with side escapement and a skewed blade. The plane has a depth stop, adjustable by a brass thumb screw on the plane top. More, on the left side is also present a nicker, held by a wooden little wedge. Its function is to pre-cut the wood fibers while planing across the grain. On the bottom is the adjustable fence; two big screws stop it at the wished rebate width.
The plane works very well along the grain as well as across the grain. For this reason I use to utilize it for making simple raised panels too.




 The first step is to trace the final thickness on all four edges.
This dimension is the same of groove width, minus a quote (1 mm in this case with a 15 mm rebate) for permitting to the panel edge to be inserted correctly into the groove and to move in the case humidity changes were.

The panel is worked across the grain first on both sides.


This trick allows to correct the possible tearout when the plane comes out from the piece.


With the nicker in cutting position trace the internal rebate width by moving the plane backwards for a couple of times. Then set the depth stop and cut the rebate.






In the successive step the plane is inclined on the left side for making the bevel. A ca.10°  slope (I cut it by eye) is enough for obtaining the wished effect.


The job finishes when the thickness mark is reached.




A piece of frame is useful for be sure the panel fits correctly in its groove.


Repeat the same steps for longitudinal cuts, without nicker this time.

Some little finishing by a shoulder plane and the panel is ready to be used.